5.31.2007

Tempo

There's a Trini music video channel called tempo. It is amazing.
Today we saw the video for Jumbie by Machel Montano (zombie dancing a
la thriller!) and I saw a video for a Riddim (totally instrumental)
made by Lenky (diwali inventor and face of dancehall changer) and
some other guys.

A couple days ago I saw a Christian reggae video that somehow managed
to get cameos from like every major reggae artist it seemed.
Ninjaman, Sizzla, a Mr. Wacky lookalike. I couldn't tell if they
were real at first or all look-alikes, but then I became almost sure
that they were the real people. The video also included a sort
segment where the artist ("Stichy" I think) faced off against the
devil, in cartoon form.

Amazing! Oooff... skkeepy. gg.

Last last night in Trinidad?

I could have 100 last nights in Trinidad and none of them could help
being awesome.

Last night I was sleepy, missed a national soccer game to see a
Bollywood movie that I could've seen that afternoon if I hadn't left
my ATM card with the boat, and then ended up watching 70% of
Spiderman 3 instead because I couldn't wait 15 minutes for the
Bollywood movie to start and having sat myself down I was too lazy to
get up and switch theatres.

But then... I find a delightful Trinidad karaoke night right next to
my boat and meet some great kids.

Tonight I wanted to go out earlier but I drank beer and played pool
too long at another bar across the way, and then shot the shit with
boatmates for too long so I was almost too sleepy to go out. Then I
payed too much for a taxi to get to a club, which turned out to be
closed, and then got into one of these "you give me money, I'll make
sure you don't get mugged and show you around" relationships which
wasn't looking to good at first because the next club we went to was
about 40% prostitutes and 60% men. Then we were just sort of walking
aimlessly and awkwardly for a bit.

But then... I saw a Japanese nineties car with a shiny green paint
job and a sticker that said "Leprechaun" across the top and before I
know it I ask a guy I'm talking to what he does and he says "well I
sold marijuana for 25 years, but then I felt I had to
diversify" (except he said something else like "diversitize") so now
I'm... well they call it 'piracy.'" Dude goes to Trinidad copyright
enforcement meetings and drops the "hey, I'm giving these guys free
publicity" bomb. So I'm like "I started a movement!" (hearing the
Simpsons fast food teenager voice in my head but sounding normal) and
we talk shop about infringement for a while.

Some background. Street vendors that sell pirate CDs here go way
beyond the blanket. They make booths with deep cycle batteries and
phat car stereo amps bolted into homemade, wheeled speaker/shelves
that they wheel around the streets blasting the shit out of some hot
music with. So it makes an even bigger contribution to Trinidad's
urban spaces than the loud car stereo or sound-system-equipped
bicycle to our own, and thus is a profession beyond reproach. It
started pouring and I helped lay out a tarp to keep his merch dry,
probably breaking some ridiculous expansion of copyright law that's
been stuck on some budget rider since I left (worlds collide man,
they collide).

Then they give me a ride back to home (I pay them some bucks, but
they buy me some beers) and we listen to and discuss Sizzla on the
way. Did you know he was on Rocafella now? The mens' names were
David and Asher. Asher was the digital entertainment entrepreneur,
and his mobile booth had a plaque above that said "House of Asher" in
Celtic lettering. Did I imagine that his manner was distinctly
Irish? But I met some very Irish looking Trini kids at the bar last
night, I know the assholes had Irish sugar workers here back in the
day, and there seems something so familiar about peoples' manner
here. If I hadn't been to Ireland, the manner would just remind me
of some of my second generation great uncle.

Fwd: article on shooting in Brazil

This is an article on Joe Martin's death.
http://www.telegram.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070530/NEWS/705300693/1116

Trini Karaoke

Last night I went out in the evening to see a Bollywood Movie
(yesterday was Indian Arrival Day) but ended up seeing Spiderman 3 (I
got there a bit early and sat in for a few minutes and then just
decided to go with it). That part kind of sucked, but when I got
back to the boat I thought I'd check out what was going on at the bar
next door to our marina and what do I hear but the sounds of
karaoke! How perfect.

I sang Word Up and Like Glue. Like glue went okay, and I got some
help from somebody who started singing "Nuttin no go so" at the end
(another buy out riddim song but with really shitty macho lyrics) and
then I started singing Red Red Wine and closed with that. It was
okay, though Word Up went better. The main attraction were the
other people.

The book was really good. It had a couple stand-out songs you don't
see much like "My Hood" by Young Jeezy which I don't know well and
probably nobody else knew at all and "Candy" by Cameo (though I had
seen that before). Most people gravitated towards the light rock
and slow james, like "Winds of Change" and "More Than Words". After
I did "Word Up" I met a fun group of kids (it was one girl's
birthday) and a few songs later one of them did "Tarzan Boy". That's
such a fun song to sing. Lots of deep breaths and tightening of the
stomach muscles, and very silly lyrics to read.

The thing you're dying to know is "was there anything awesomely
Trinidadian about this karaoke night?" And of course there was, but
it was sprinkled in like seasoning. On an instrumental break in
"Karma Kameleon" this guy busted out a verse which was most likely
from a Karma Kameleon influenced dancehall song. There was one guy
with a great voice who when he sang slow jams they'd sound like
reggae covers of slow jams, but just because that's how he sang (e.g.
"Me and Mrs. Jones have a ting going on"). I thought that was really
nice. Then there was a woman who was the inverse to that: she sang a
Bob Marley song, but with a strong, steady, R&B voice. The
synthyness of accompaniment co-conspired to disguise any hint of
reggae and I thought it was some R&B song until I asked somebody.

One really weird thing was that somebody sang "I will always love
you" by the Cure and the beat was very reggae. But the guitar sounds
sounded just like any karaoke imitation of the cure would sound--not
third generation from some reggae version of the song--and the lyrics
were completely faithful as well, making me wonder if the reggae-
ization of the song happened in its karaoke transcription, where
somebody Caribbean in front of a MIDI sequencer just *heard* a
different beat. This is improbable, but still a very good
description of the overall effect.

And then there were the calypso songs. There were only two while I
was there, but they were gems. One was about a lizard that escaped
in class, and the children go crazy and try to find the lizard,
except teacher Mildred, well (chorus) "The way she Joooolly and
Haaappy must be the lizard is ticklin she". Then the other one was a
song by Sparrow (aka the Mighty Sparrow) about having sex on the
beach. One of the memorable lines was "When we roll... Sand get in
me nose hole".

A guy who'd spent some time in Rhode Island explained that it was
from a time before it was okay to sing explicitly about sex on the
radio, and that Sparrow was one of the masters of insouciant double
entendres. It made me think how hard it is to do good double-
entendre when you can also just talk explicitly about sex. Without
the constraint of censorship, double-entendre becomes like Olde
Sturbridge Village. Maybe the only way it can survive is to be like
the Amish, and have a elaborately codified and evolving set of rules
about when it's just better to use a modern implement like an
antibiotic or a cellphone.

All this talk about double-entendres recalls something I've been
obsessed with for a while. It's the funny closing quote of a New
York Times article on the New York subway branded condom that a bunch
of public health institutions partnered to distribute (to great
success). And I think it may be the best funny closing quote that
has ever happened in the American press. The article is winding up
by riffing on all the funny promo slogans (e.g. "New York's Hottest
Wrapper") and how there are a ton they haven't even used yet. The
quote? "The possibilities are endless, and so are the double
entendres." You sly public health official, you. The reporter must
have been so pumped.

My address in Brazil

Hey all,

My address in Brazil will be:

Holmes Wilson
Sailboat Brigadoon
Marina Park Hotel
Fortaleza
Brazil

If you send me something in the next week I'll get it there when I
arrive in about a month.

5.29.2007

Leaving Trinidad for Fortaleza today

I'm leaving Trinidad for Fortaleza today, with the South African,
minus the Englishman, plus a Slovak and German couple. ETA 3-5 weeks.
God I hope it's 3.

Something else to not tell my mom

A guy who went to Venerini and had been living in Rio (I think I
mentioned him in an earlier post) was just shot and killed in the
street a few nights ago. His name was Joe Martin, and he's friends
with Al Bombz and I think a bunch of people in the Ralph's crowd.
They're not sure what happened, but you know him see if there's
anything you can do for his family in Worcester.