3.28.2007

From Margaritaville to the Dominican Republic

Right now I'm chilling in Santo Domingo when friends of Johanna W's.
I really like it here, it's much more fun and interesting than most
of Puerto Rico. I feel like I finally left the US. More on that
later, but you should all consider spending some time here.

Also, yesterday was the first day I spent in Spanish since I left
home. What a rush. It made me tired and want to eat a lot. By the
end of the day I was exhausted in a way that couldn't be accounted
for just by the small amount of sleep I'd had. But at the same time
it was extremely exhilarating mentally and spiritually.

A few notes though, on the journey here:

There were two boats involved. The ferry to Culebra, and the ferry
from Mayaguez, PR to Santo Domingo, DR.

The first was a normal small ferry, the second was a party ferry.

Connecting the two were two bus connections. In the trip I realized
that Ramon's Worcester <-> NYC shuttle is modeled on what in Puerto
Rico is a full fledged and super efficient system of van transport
blanketing the island. Anyway, that's what I rode on.

Funny things about the party ferry: it was a party ferry in the sense
that it offered live entertainment, movies, restaurants, and
boozing. The only boozing I did before becoming intolerably sleepy
(thanks to that 5:30 wakeup) was an airline-sized wine bottle of
"Ponte Vecckio" semi fizzy red that I bought down the street from the
ferry dock. For entertainment, I watched a projected VHS of the Da
Vinci Code in Spanish with no subtitles. Or rather, there were
subtitles, but only when characters spoke in Latin. Also, I was
brutally tired and half asleep for most of it.

The funniest thing about the ferry was that they must have got a deal
on it in Denmark, and there were all kinds of traces of the
Scandinavian. Like decorative paintings of olde Danish tall ships
with syllables like "borg" in the captions. Or europeanish 220 volt
two-pronged power outlets everywhere. Or conference rooms with names
like "Stockholm" (now converted into the cheap seats for bedless
passengers like me). My favorite was the sign on the doors out to
the deck that warned of ice. I collected pictures of these specimens
like seashells, and that was my favorite.

On the 220 volt power. I actually *had* the adapter from that trip
to Italy last summer, and so I plugged my laptop in and it worked!
But then I as I had my hand on the laptop while it was closed and
charging I felt this strange vibration, unaccounted for by anything I
knew about my laptop or felt in the motion of the boat. I was
rubbing my hand across it trying to figure out what the hell was
going on when I realized it was a mild electric shock. Yooo.

Arriving by sea in Santo Domingo in the morning was beautiful, a way
I suspect arriving from some place on a several-stories-high boat in
the early misty morning always is.

3.25.2007

Leaving Margaritaville

Tomorrow I leave Margaritaville (Cul3bra, PR) for the Dominican
Republic to meet my boat. I'll also be chilling with a friend of
Johanna W's for a few days. Catch the ferry bright and early, then go.

I was here too long, and now I'm gripped by anxiety about how to take
that. One takeaway is to avoid getting stuck ex-patting around
places, and lean towards Brazil. Another is to insist on "no
takeaway" and just keep going, unencumbered with any bias.

Hilary from Providence was here for a few days. It happened very
randomly (she called me about Worcester diners) but we ended up doing
some awesome camping for a few days. She brought me rain gear and
other goodies from home, which will help me on my way, as they say in
Mario 3. Last night I washed dishes at my favorite restaurant and
had an awesome meal (see adjoining fish photo).

I got a camera, so there's tons of photos on the side. And I did
this awesome remix of Pass That Dutch using a song by the Knife:
http://wstr.org/nynex

Business taken care of, gotta go.

3.24.2007

I washed mad dishes and

I washed mad dishes and ate the motherfucking red snapper. Drank sake sweaty. Sampled several deserts. Serious salad. Got the camera too!

3.22.2007

The folks I'm sailing with

Since many of you have asked, there are two guys, in their early
30s. One is British and one is South African. They are moving a
recently purchased boat from Florida to Tanzania. Maybe I'll post
pictures of them soon (want to ask them first).

Update on plans. Read this if you want to know where I'll be at.

So the boat I'll be sailing on is leaving Cartagena, Columbia for the
Dominican Republic tomorrow. They'll arrive in Santo Domingo in
about a week.

I'm planning on leaving on Monday. Was hoping to leave tomorrow, but
it got tricky. I'll be leaving early Monday ÅM on a ferry to the
mainland, crossing Puerto Rico in little van busses (publicos) and
going to the Dominican Republic on this crazy party ferry. It has a
casino. I'm really into varying the kinds of transportation in this
trip, so ferry -> several little vans -> quasi-cruiseship is a
satisfying combo in this regard. And I'm pretty sure it's the
cheapest way I can get there from here.

I'll start the sailing voyage in about 10 days (this is a guess).
Then I'll probably decide within one or two weeks whether I want to
stay in Rio or cross the Atlantic to Tanzania. Beyond that, it
wouldn't make sense to predict. Hope you're all doing great. And
big ups to everybody who hustled to get a package down to me (Thanks
N, NS, K, T, H!). It is received and in good order.

Rip mix burn

I just realized that since I'm traveling with a laptop I can do
something that I've never done before while traveling: rip music from
practically anybody who has music I like.

*So* much reggaeton. And at karaoke night I could get reggaeton
instrumentals. The only problem is I feel like a jerk walking
through the campsite with my laptop. Also, I'd have to delete a ton
of stuff to make room. But I guess I've got to do it before I leave
here.

I usually look for a ride to the beach, instead of paying the $2 for
a taxi van. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. 50/50,
ish. Today, seconds after I wondering if I'll get a ride, this VW
van rumbles around the corner, part of a convoy that appeared on the
island days ago. Grinning like an idiot I stick my thumb out, they
slow down and I jump through the already open side door the way you'd
jump into a helicopter in a Vietnam movie. The music (what but
reggaeton?) was exceptional, and included the Spanish "I wanna love
you" that had eluded me on the internet.

I have got to rip their music. Saw a big battery and an inverter on
the floor of the van too, so maybe they can "cosponsor" of the beach
dance party I want to have happen.

3.17.2007

A lizard!

So I'm reading the NYT and a lizard crawls on my foot. A lizard! It
tickled!

3.16.2007

Motherfuckers

I got a free box of Stoned Wheat Thins and they have partially
hydrogenated oil in them. Motherfuckers.

They also say "imported" on the box. They're imported from Canada.
Great.

3.15.2007

To celebrate my 5th karaoke week I sang "Mambo #5"

The odds are I won't be back this summer. I was just at a karaoke
night here (the one that marks a karaoke week, how I measure time on
the island). You would love it, it's so rich. This woman did a
super improvisational English / Spanish version of My Way that just
blew me ay-way. That's what I need the video camera for, god damn.
And people love my sean paul songs too. Tonight I did Mambo #5.
It's nice doing songs you don't know that are so good you can just
plow through the verses and nail the chorus, with a great beat behind
you. Maybe I should get lucky dog punky or DJ Denise to send down
some burned CD+G's. Even if I'm gone by the time they arrive,
they'll augment the English selection for future generations. It'd
be really great to have Remix to Ignition, for example.

There are these folks who get together on their porch all afternoon
in the weekends with a karaoke machine and people stop by with beer.
I hung with them last weekend. A bunch of the dudes from there have
a sort of karaoke crew they call "El Grupo Loco". And in the
instrumentals they'll say stuff like "el grupo? .... .... el grupo
LOCO!" and then they all laugh, every time. It's great. Can't
wait. I'm learning some songs, but the melodies are complicated
enough it's tough learning them from other people's singing. Gotta
download some stuff.

The fun thing about tonight's karaoke was that it was a dance party,
everybody up and dancing. Last week it was just too packed.

Some awesome songs for you to download. Possibly these aren't the
titles, but google them in some combination with the lines in
parentheses and you'll find the songs I bet.

Vayan para trabajo! (que no que no que no)
Vine a decirte adios (por no dejarte sola)
Billirubina (sp?)
La conciencia (sp?) (corazon... la consciencia y la razon!)
El mentiroso (es mentiroso ese hombre, es mentiroso!)

Sorry, Kevin, just riffing here. Decided I had a good blog post and
thought I'd kill two birds.

Whale book begun

"Some years ago--never mind how long precisely--having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me on shore, I thought I would sail about a little and see the watery part of the world.  It is a way I have of driving off the spleen and regulating the circulation.  Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp, drizzly November in my soul; whenever I find myself involuntarily pausing before coffin warehouses, and bringing up the rear of every funeral I meet; and especially whenever my hypos get such an upper hand of me, that it requires a strong moral principle to prevent me from deliberately stepping into the street, and methodically knocking people's hats off--then, I account it high time to get to sea as soon as I can.  This is my substitute for pistol and ball.  With a philosophical flourish Cato throws himself upon his sword; I quietly take to the ship.  There is nothing surprising in this.  If they but knew it, almost all men in their degree, some time or other, cherish very nearly the same feelings towards the ocean with me."

3.14.2007

Ah the wind is making me crazy

So my new camping location is awesome, but it faces the harbor and if
the wind is strong it just rips off the harbor all day and night.
The last couple days it's been coming in extra hard and it's been
like sleeping in a working parachute. I should probably find a
leeward place to camp.

Or maybe I should just get used to it. Like how in Portland, OR I
eventually made peace with the rain. The main thing that's strange
is that it makes me colder, which changes my appetite and sleep
patterns. But then if I walk 15 minutes and get around some
buildings or a hill from the wind I have to readjust. I guess that's
another thing I can just get used to.

If nothing else, getting beaten on by wind fits with reading Moby Dick.

Puerto Ricans...

...are very particular about how you sit on picnic tables.

Most of the picnic tables here are built about several inches too
high, so that if you sit on the bench your legs dangle and you're
leaned forward too much. If you sit on the top of the table and put
your feet on the seat, the geometry works out and you have a nice
place to sit. Not too mention your feet are safe from, say, fireants.

But for some reason people have a really strong objection to you
sitting on a picnic table. I guess it has something to do with buts
going where food does, which makes sense intuitively but is totally
ridiculous in reality, your hands (definitely) and the food itself
(probably) having way more yucky grime and bacteria on them than the
outside of your pants.

The really funny thing is that regular folks aren't shy about being
enforcers. The first few times it happened somebody might have been
wearing a uniform or something, so I wrote it off as your typical non-
authority figure throwing his or her flimsy weight around. But then
some dude with a family comes up. I thought I had him burned and my
seat back, because next he pulls out some flippers and a harpoon
right next to a "no fishing" sign. He insists, though, that the sign
applies to the *other* side of the bay, which is plausible, though he
may just be saying that.

I little flock of white dudes on scooters just drove by, ever so
tentatively. 4 dudes, 4 scooters, which means they chose paying $100/
day extra to avoid the crotch-on-butt of doubles riding. I mean, if
what they're after is to not look like homos they'd use the
accelerator or leggo the brakes for 3 seconds. I thought this post
was going to be about Puerto Ricans, but now something broader is
emerging: a general ass-phobia, is what it is.

3.13.2007

Tofu is awesome

If you ever read anything longer than a few pages online, and you
have a Mac, get Tofu. It's a program that makes text easier to read
off a screen by splitting it up into nice clean columns. You can
even move to the next page by saying "next page", which is stupid but
also fun to try.

I don't have a link but you can google it.

Reading the Gutenberg Project's text file of "Moby Dick" right now
and it's pretty workable.

Oops, missed my flight home

Oh dear, I missed my flight home. What *shall* I do?

My campsite

My campsite (on a friend's brother's porch... thanks S!) has:

*shade
*shelter (don't have to rely totally on the rain)
*an air mattress (thanks K & C)
*a great view of the harbor
*a bar next door
*a karaoke bar next door (on Thursdays or in the case of this
weekend, all last weekend)
*its own private dock or, well, ladder (got dropped off there last
night after an amaaazing dinner on L's little boat)
*electricity
*electricity inside my tent via extension cord (finished reading To
the Lighthouse on my computer last night)
*a water hose
*And as of this morning... I can get the island (not-free) wifi
network if I walk up these outdoor stairs so... INTERNET!

But pretty soon I'll be on a 30 foot boat with 2 other dudes, so it's
cool to recharge for a bit I guess.

3.12.2007

Electricity in my tent!

Electricity in my tent!

Mary Wilson in City Paper!

Mary Wilson in Philadelphia's free weekly!

http://www.citypaper.net/articles/2007/03/08/blowin-up

3.09.2007

Karaoke every night this weekend

Karaoke every night this weekend at the bar next door!

Hooked up

The 3 ways in which I have been hooked up:

1) I found some folks who are sailing down to Rio. I'm going with them.

2) A friend is letting me camp in his brother's back yard, which next
door to the bar, smack in the middle of town, and has an amazing view
of the harbor. My campsite now has electricity, water, and cats
(okay, one of the cats might've peed on my tent but it's cool).

3) This hot Brooklyn couple gave me their air mattress when they
left. Slept on it last night and it was sofft. Definitely adds
about an hour to how late I can sleep in the tent (so now I'm at 8:30).

I'm considering getting a camera for this voyage, but I'm not sure!

3.08.2007

I have an air matress!

I have an air matress!

Karaoke night and I wanna

Karaoke night and I wanna love you by snoop and akon is the hardest song i have ever tried to learn.

3.07.2007

Anybody wanna go to Jamaica?

If anyone wants to meet me in Jamaica, email me. Figure on spending
about $400 for a week, I think. I'm kicking around the idea.

Rio and beyond

Over the weekend, a group of people emailed me who are sailing to
Tanzania via Trinidad and Rio de Janeiro emailed me and invited me to
crew on their boat. After all the flyering town, chatting people up
in sailor bars, it turns out my boat will come from the internet. Is
that the moral of the story you think I need?

If you feel strongly that I should cross the atlantic and go to
Africa, or that I should jump off in Brazil, write me. Tomorrow is
karaoke night. If anybody would like to email me the instrumental to
"I wanna 'love' you" by Akon that would be awesome.

3.06.2007

The juice

I'm really not sure what I'm doing here. (And it's good to hear
myself say that)

Too diurnal

The night here is very beautiful and serene. And the sun isn't
beating down, fucking with my skin DNA and giving me freckles. I
want to get on a more nocturnal schedule, but the sun and the
hardness of my sleeping surface wake me up early. Not sure about the
solution.

I totally came up with a theory of why sunburns make you chilly.
And I'm going to be chilly tonight because the woman to whom I I
improvised this theory now has my sweatshirt (sweatshirt =
sleepingbag/2) I opened the computer to look up her boyfriends
number and see if he could bring it back to me on the scooter, but
then I started "blogging".

3.05.2007

Boat to rio now very

Boat to rio now very probable. Can meet it in the dr or jamaica. Fuck yeah. Duck yao.

3.02.2007

Vieques

One of the most beautiful places I've ever been is the cemetery in
Isabella Segunda on the island of Vieques. Vieques is a larger
island off the coast of Puerto Rico, best known (by me anyway) for
having kicked out the Navy. This cemetery overlooked the ocean, and
the graves were so haphazardly close it was like walking through a maze.

Most stone was bright, sun-drenched white, and graves were adorned
with huge fake (and therefore immortal) floral displays. Some palms
bordered the cemetery, but on the whole it was utterly free of shade.

Our host in Vieques had lost a son in 9/11. His son was a broker on
one of the upper floors, and he spoke with him that morning after one
of the planes hit. He was a firefighter, so he also lost many, many
friends. He gave me a card with his son's picture on it, which I'm
getting more and more determined to take to Brazil.

3.01.2007

2 reasons why I've been taking showers lately

First thanks goes to the evangelical Christians. My campsite,
selected for being near town but secluded from the road, had a shower
all along-- a makeshift water collection type thing. But I didn't
know until these folks rented the trailer I'd been camping behind for
the Presidents' Day weekend-- they showed me.

The second thanks goes to Bernie, ex NYC fire fighter and current
restaurant owner, who let me stay at his friend's awesome house in
Vieques. I sailed over there with some folks I'd met some of whom
were visiting him, thought I was going to be camping, and he invited
me to stay at this awesome house he was looking after for a friend.
Dude is also the kind of New Yorker who doesn't let you pay for
anything when you're out with him. He was an extremely generous and
gracious host. So, if you're in Queens out near JFK, look up the
Harbor Light restaurant and go eat there with a bunch of friends.

They suggested I shave the beard to not look intimidating while I'm
traveling or looking for rides, so I'm gonna do that soon.

"Splish splash I was takin' a bath" or "when I shower I feel like a happy elephant"

A few days ago in the shower I started thinking "Well uh, splish
Splash I was takin' a bath..." and picturing that Sesame Street short
where elephants get hosed down and spray themselves with their
trunks. Those elephants were big, clumsy, dirty animals and so
excited to be bathing. Seems that's how I feel, because whenever I
shower I start giggling and singing that song in my head in the
shower. It gets funnier each time.

"Uh well uh, splish splash I was takin' a bath..."

Say you're showering in a makeshift outdoor shower. Or you're really
salty from days of being in the ocean. Or you aren't showering that
much and it's a treat. Each of these things un-alienates you from
the simple joy of taking a shower. 'Cause normally you're
alienated-- either by habit, convenience or overuse. I think a lot
about alienation on this trip. It's come up most often regarding
transportation (scooters v. cars, sailboats v. flights). But here it
is again. Baths. Elephants. Splishing and splashing.

Moral of the story: don't let modern amenities prevent you from
feeling like a happy elephant.

Drinkin' sake long with some sushi me in Juanita Ba's

i.e. : I went to sushi night at this restaurant called Juanita
Bananas, and I got a tuna roll (yumi) with sake, and of course I'm
thinking about Killa Cam except that I'm eating sushi instead of
riding a suzuki (though I did ride a suzuki today) and I'm in a
restaurant called Juanita Bay-nanas? instead of Osaka Bay.

The sake was this creamy opaque kind that my friend Mini introduced
me to in Seattle when we went to see a musical with my aunt's family.

This happened a few days ago... I'm catching up.